As dawn breaks over the Ganges in Varanasi, flickering candles on banana leaf offerings drift past our boat.
As the sun rises higher, the stepped ghats lining the riverbank become a hive of activity.
Early arrivals are flower-sellers, priests and sadhus. or holy men, who make a living from the thousands of pilgrims who visit the sacred city.
Women wearing vividly patterned saris arrive to bathe.
Seated on the steps of the Assi Ghat, youths lather themselves with soap.
Ablutions performed, prayers are said and smoke curls upwards from the first cremation of the day on the Manarkarnika Ghat, the principal burning ghat in Varanasi.
On Kedar Ghat, professional laundry men begin washing clothes, slapping them on large flat stones with such force that we can hear the echo out on the river. There is religious merit in having your clothes washed in Varanasi, but Brahmins, the upper class in Hindu society, employ their own dhobi-wallahs to avoid caste contamination.
Varanasi is the home of Lord Shiva, one of the three main deities in Hinduism. Not only his Shaivite followers, but every devout Hindu hopes to die here and to have his ashes scattered on the holy river.
Throughout the day, corpses wrapped in gold-coloured bindings are brought for cremation. Another, then another, arrives on a litter borne through Varanasi’s narrow lanes by Doms —low caste untouchables, or Dalits.
Mourners stand watching the funeral pyres being built by other Dalits who perform all the unsavoury jobs at Varanasi.
Only male relatives attend a funeral. Normally the eldest son carries out the obsequies. He lights the pyre after first placing a burning stick in the mouth of the deceased.
Not everyone is cremated however. Sadhus, pregnant women and children under two are considered pure and do not need to be cleansed by the sacred fire. They are either buried or set adrift on the river.
Read more:
http://factsanddetails.com/world/cat55/sub354/item1343.html
Photography by Julian Worker, Nick Dawson and Prem Kapoor.
Fascinating photographs and text, a real eye-opener on this amazing city and its holy river. A question about the funeral pyres: Years ago I read that the son of the deceased parent had to crack the person’s skull before burning so it did not explode with intense heat – I wonder if this is a custom?
Also, I am curious as to what some Christians would say about a pregnant woman being considered ‘pure’, given the ‘conceived in original sin’ doctrine.
Thank you for your thoughtful comment. You can find detailed information about the death rituals here: http://mailerindia.com/hindu/veda/index.php/death.
Whatever a Christian may think, these are Hindu beliefs.
It is excellent to see beautifully detailed photographs of the rituals in Varanasi. These photos are near to impossible to get as an ordinary visitor.
Photographing the cremation ghat is forbidden. Tourists have been apprehended by local police for ignoring this warning displayed on a sign.
Absolutely fantastic and inspirational. I have also been searching for a format to present my creative exegesis… So thank you !
Thank you Karen. I wish your project well.
This is the most comprehensive study of world religions I have seen, with absolutely superb photographs. I congratulate the author for what surely will be a most useful tool for schools, universities etc., and any others interested in such a broad coverage of this fascinating subject.
With the world in the state it’s in at the moment, this book is very timely.
Maybe the book will contribute to a better understanding and tolerance of other faiths.
What beautiful images and a fascinating insight into Hinduism. I would love to read more
Thank you for your comment Judith. I am working overtime to get more photo-features up on the site.
Varanasi is a fabulous city to spend time in. I’d recommend it to everyone, particularly people who enjoy photography; there’s so much there to photograph as Christine so ably demonstrates.
I bet you have some good photos of Varanasi yourself. But it’s a case of “Jack be nimble, Jack be quick” is it not?
these exceptional photographs catapault my memory straight back to Varanasi which I visited in 2004.Exceptional work; thank you.
Varanasi/Beneras/Kasi is nothing but city of believers; City of God Shiva. One visit is not complete. Ganga Arti in the morning and in the evening has its own charm.
A great set of photos Christine. Nice to see the story told in a factual, non-sensationalist way and with sensitive photos of private moments.
Thank you Jason. Being such a great traveller yourself, am sure you must have some good photos of this sacred city.
Great article.
Thanks Santo. Have you been there?
Appreciation to my father who told me about this weblog,
this blog is in fact remarkable.
Thank you.